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A new day, climbing changes with each passing year, more and
more climbers seem to want to change climbing to bowling. Fewer and fewer climbers on Cathedral and Whitehorse ledges, more
and more in Rumney. Nothing wrong with that but each area has it's own ethics. There is one overriding ethic in my opinion.
The first ascent determines the style of the route. If you want to do the route you should do it in the style of the first
ascent or better. If you are uncomfortable with the protection options then do another route or top-rope it. Never add permanent
protection to an existing route. Every route is not for every climber. Raise your standard, don't lower the climbs.
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