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Friday, June 12, 2009

Warmth Comes at last
The season has moved to the warmth of rock climbing. I do love the winter but the warmth of spring and summer makes it hard to come indoors. The late sun makes it possible to climb late into the evening. Almost forty years of climbing and I still feel the passion.
9:58 am edt 

Sunday, July 20, 2008

A new day, climbing changes with each passing year, more and more climbers seem to want to change climbing to bowling. Fewer and fewer climbers on Cathedral and Whitehorse ledges, more and more in Rumney. Nothing wrong with that but each area has it's own ethics. There is one overriding ethic in my opinion. The first ascent determines the style of the route. If you want to do the route you should do it in the style of the first ascent or better. If you are uncomfortable with the protection options then do another route or top-rope it. Never add permanent protection to an existing route. Every route is not for every climber. Raise your standard, don't lower the climbs.
10:21 am edt 

Thursday, July 17, 2008

11:29 pm edt 

2009.06.01 | 2008.07.01

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A new day, climbing changes with each passing year, more and more climbers seem to want to change climbing to bowling. Fewer and fewer climbers on Cathedral and Whitehorse ledges, more and more in Rumney. Nothing wrong with that but each area has it's own ethics. There is one overriding ethic in my opinion. The first ascent determines the style of the route. If you want to do the route you should do it in the style of the first ascent or better. If you are uncomfortable with the protection options then do another route or top-rope it. Never add permanent protection to an existing route. Every route is not for every climber. Raise your standard, don't lower the climbs.

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